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After a day so unremarkable I have no memory of it, we set off again. We have no idea what to expect as we ride between rock walls hundreds of metres high. Ahead, and as yet Prostitutes SantAnastasia is the towering mass of Mt.

A fast descent and we have made it to Randazzo. If it was 2Km more it would have been in doubt. The cold air hits and I am starting to shake violently. We have a room booked and need to find Prostitutes SantAnastasia quickly and get warm. We do a lap Prostitutes SantAnastasia the towns narrow side streets. Everything is constructed of dark laval stone.

People must flock here for the cool in summer, but today this winters light is less than flattering. We need to get some movement going, some heat into stiff bodies after yesterday climbing. It should be a downhill ride to the coast today, but somehow we find a few brutish climbs first.

Once more, I would not be at Prostitutes SantAnastasia today. We take a left and pick up the road to Prostitutes SantAnastasia — the SR, and start our descent into the orange groves and warmth of Spring that is down the hill from here. It should be an easy day. Somehow life knows when to wrench an easy day from your hands and spoil things. If it can rip you off a bit as well, then so much the better. We have booked a room, and from the very first moment we have a bad feeling. Prostitutes SantAnastasia is not ready, can we come back in an hour?

One and a half hours later we have got both our bikes and all ten bags up to the sixth floor of the horrid block of apartments.

We are shown a grubby room, and then the guy starts on the long list of additional costs we are expected to pay. If I wanted Prostitutes SantAnastasia kill someone and not have the body found Prostitutes SantAnastasia weeks this would be a good place. We get an unchristian vindictive joy in posting an online review later that evening on the WWW. The light is almost Prostitutes SantAnastasia the point of unsafe to ride, and we are sitting at a cafe trying to find a place to stay.

If you sit still anywhere along the coast here an athletic African guy will try to sell you a wooden giraffe or a bowl that folds flat made out of wood. It feels like the most dispiriting business models yet created short of prostitution.

By the Prostitutes SantAnastasia of the WWW. We book two days and have nothing but light duties planned as we are now both suffering from heavy colds.

It is short, steep and violently sinuous and takes you up to Taorminn and stunning views of Etna. The bus drivers require great skill, nerves of steel and a little Prostitutes SantAnastasia the Ninja.

Our driver is young, which is good. He is trying to chat up the girl in row 3 as he drives, which is less Prostitutes SantAnastasia but typically Italian. He gets up the climb with muscle memory alone, and a good chunk of luck of the young. After a day so unremarkable I have no memory of it, we set off again.

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With great good fortune we stumble across one of the best rides of Prostitutes SantAnastasia time on Sicily. We pick up minor roads that run along the coast and allow us to leave the traffic of the SS behind. With the sea to our left, we tick off fishing villages as we Prostitutes SantAnastasia our way around the base of Etna. Why anyone would build here is beyond me.

In a quite Prostitutes SantAnastasia we stand astride our bikes and can hear the explosions from the volcano. They are deep low Hi Fi deep, and can be Prostitutes SantAnastasia in the stomach and soles of the feet. My cold is getting a little better, whilst Esther is going in the opposite direction. We have booked into a hotel once again and wake to rain and thunder.

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Neither of us would now be at work if we had it. The hotel is fully booked and we leave Catania without really seeing Prostitutes SantAnastasia much in daylight.

What we do get to experience is the one way system and lethal traffic of a Saturday morning. In stark contrast to Prostitutes SantAnastasia beauty of yesterdays ride, todays is rubbish. Roads made with blocks of lava stone are hard wearing, beautiful to look at and slippy both wet or dry. Yesterday a procession for one of the saints days passed the hotel dripping candle wax. We walk the first bit. If you are looking for a ride that takes in every one of the islands Petro Chemical facilities, this is it.

We have a rubbish day of taxing navigation. The weather remains kind to us today, which is a good thing when moral is in the gutter. Chemical smells so thick we can taste them and a uncontrolable urge to lick your lips to be avoided, we finally meet the outskirts of Prostitutes SantAnastasia. We take a late coffee and a bite to eat. A local cyclist pays for our meal, and raises our spirits more than he will Prostitutes SantAnastasia know and then it Prostitutes SantAnastasia into the city.

To every Yin there is almost certainly a Yang.

For every bad day on the road, a good, and every expected highlight dashed an unexpected gem. Siracusa is an unexpected gem that looks as if it has fallen from favour with the guide books. It is wonderful. We have completed our ride around Mt. Etna now and Prostitutes SantAnastasia one last ride into the mountains planned.

But first we Prostitutes SantAnastasia enough time to walk the streets of this beautiful town and try to shake off these colds. I am tall, tall enough to be called tall but not freaky basketball tall. Prostitutes SantAnastasia may be used to ticking the sizing Prostitutes SantAnastasia M or L when ordering a cycling jersey from Trek.

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Such sizes do exist, and still it may be short in Prostitutes SantAnastasia arms. The ferry to Sicily had been out of service for almost three weeks.

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Its return coincided with the island of Malta getting a lashing from a series of severe storms that lead to it now being cancelled because of bad weather.

When we have to return for our flights from Malta we may be panicked, but for the time being we are a picture of sanguine cheerfulness. Finally, on Jan 27th we headed for Valletta and the ferry terminal. The boat puts you down just outside the Prostitutes SantAnastasia of Pozzallo.

At this time of year Prostitutes SantAnastasia means you have a ride in the dark along pot hold and unfamiliar streets with a Prostitutes SantAnastasia of a one-way system to negotiate.

You also have to remember to go back to cycling on the right, which is all a bit much. Big lazy waves are rolling up onto the sandy beach as we ride along the sea front. We are heading inland and into the hills above the Prostitutes SantAnastasia, so there is a steep climb on cold legs to begin the day. A Prostitutes SantAnastasia in between storms is predicted, and it really feels good.

This is touring country as good as anywhere you could choose to be this morning. It feels good to be turning the legs, exploring a bit and seeing new roads. The climb has us both pealing off Prostitutes SantAnastasia of clothing until we are riding in summer kit.

Dry stone walls line the narrow roads and we are following the gps between hamlets and small villages. Turns come quickly and some roads look almost unused since the olive trees were harvested. Scicli sits Prostitutes SantAnastasia a natural bowl scraped out of the rock.

The road down to it follows a cleft in the land that somehow finds a way down to the town. We have no idea what to Prostitutes SantAnastasia as we ride Prostitutes SantAnastasia rock walls hundreds of metres high. The town opens up at the last-minute with a grand church, shops and homes cut back into the rock and a dusty main street leading to the promise of bars for first coffee. The sound of scratching and hammering comes from two junk shop grottos. Old men are busy repairing and Prostitutes SantAnastasia things that I can not for the life of me see anyone in their right minds ever buying.

It is fascinating. Our lack of preparation means Prostitutes SantAnastasia we are constantly surprised by tucked away little towns like this.

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Gems that we hope will escape the guide books for a little while longer. There is enough in Scicli to hang around and perhaps sit down on a Prostitutes SantAnastasia for a while.

We do a bit of that, and take a near perfect cup of coffee, and then Prostitutes SantAnastasia is back onto the bikes and more climbing. We are over m, the sun is dropping behind hills and already throwing cold long shadows across the road. We need to find a pitch Prostitutes SantAnastasia the night.

Near the village of Ragusa we ride by a path disappearing down amongst small fields.

A moment later we have a better view and can see a possible tent spot. There are birds singing as we set up and it soon gets cold enough to pull on Prostitutes SantAnastasia vest and Rab thermals. There is a fast moving stream, so Prostitutes SantAnastasia is not a problem and we brew one tea after another and sit out till forced into our bags by the chill.

It is cold Prostitutes SantAnastasia to keep on all of our clothing as we settle in for a long dark night. Even before 6. A late start. The tent is wet with condensation after Prostitutes SantAnastasia clear skies and windless cold night.

It is not before 9. The effect is magically restorative, and we stand like Cormorants, arms out to soak up the warmth. A climb, it always is a climb first thing.

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Up we go to over m and the town of Giarratana. We arrive dripping with sweat. This is the nightmare Prostitutes SantAnastasia these low temperatures and the dampness of the air. You are rarely completely comfortable, and often too cold and too hot at one and the same time. Down and then back up we go to over m and the town of Monterosso and onwards. Before the next Prostitutes SantAnastasia, we have a significant moment as we ride through the 42,Km point on our journey.

A climb, a steep one on cobbles that has us pushing the bikes and we are in Prostitutes SantAnastasia town of Vizzini.

If ever a town requires double Prostitutes SantAnastasia it is this one. A flat plain with Prostitutes SantAnastasia from the north and nothing but a summer frock. There are cold rooms in most of the houses here on the island and people move into a single room to be kept warm through the winter. We try to warm up with a coffee in a bar.

Land Rovers and old Fiats belt by outside, some stop and drivers dive in for an espresso.

They try to stand half in with the cup and half out the door with the cigarette. Again we are looking for a wild camp spot as the light fades. We push the bikes off the road and to a far corner Prostitutes SantAnastasia a field. There are scruffy olive trees and just enough room between them for us.

We have a visit from some of the wild dogs of Sicily overnight. They snuffle around the tent and then get too excited not to bark. This Prostitutes SantAnastasia of a half Prostitutes SantAnastasia other dogs and eventually leads to a canine howling that makes sleep difficult for a while.

Dawn is greeted, as so Prostitutes SantAnastasia in Italy by a volley of gun shot. There are more and I have not the first notion of what they are shooting at. I have a nasty thought it may be small birds. It is overcast as we push away and looks likely to stay that way all day. A lumpy ride to Caltagirone that again ends with us pushing our bikes up steep and desperately narrow cobbled street.

The place is a labyrinth and we are trying to find the centre. A plug the town name into the gps, this usually does Prostitutes SantAnastasia trick, but today it shows a figure of 8 route that makes no sense at all. We have not come far today, but the cold and the climbing have us beat. We have a choice to make. Go onwards and into ever higher mountains and colder nights. Or we could drop to the lower levels and ride towards Mt. Etna and it is not an easy choice. Choosing the best escort in Motta Sant'Anastasia will be a personal decision based on your own needs, preferences and desires.

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North Side of Etna in February. Orange groves, near Catania. The town has a limited pallet of colours; grey, light grey and dark grey plus white.

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